HURRICANE PARTY!!!

I can not imagine there are many advantages to living in hurricane-prone areas. I mean, I can imagine many advantages to the areas themselves -- living near a beach, gorgeous weather deep into the year, having swimsuits qualify as "casual wear -- but from June to November of each year, I can't think that hurricanes rank too high on everyone's Things I Love About the South list. To further reinforce that assertion, I need only ask Chef Tim Lyons at blu seafood and bar. After all, it was Hurricane Wilma that chased him from his plush digs in the Keys and Louie's Backyard and sent him and his coastal cuisine to Durham. (Thanks, Wilma!) But if one had to look for a silver lining behind that dark funnel cloud, I would imagine that the Southern tradition of the Hurricane Party would have to qualify.

Folks in coastal towns all across the Southeast and the Gulf are familiar with the tradition of the Hurricane Party. These get-togethers need very few requirements in order to manifest. First, you need a safe location, preferably a structure that can stand high winds and high waters. Second, you need a lot of food and some adult drinks. Third, and most important, you need a hurricane.

The Hurricane Party serves many purposes. Since they can sometimes last as long as 3-5 days, they help provide a welcome destraction from the potential destruction that is going on just outside the walls of the "safehouse." Friends and neighbors all gather together to wait out the storm and use all different sorts of diversions, be it board games, drinking games, or anything else that might help pass the time. The sense of community comforts many people and alleviates the stress of a potentially disturbing situation.

Hurricanes typically knock out the power in many of these regions, which illustrates another vital function of the Hurricane Party. Many households, restaurants and other businesses have caches of foodstuffs that could rot or spoil without proper refrigeration and, once the power goes out, this process is expedited. So these huge gatherings help people consume their refrigerated and frozen goods rather than see them wasted. Often times, food that goes bad quicker is consumed at the earlier hours of the hurricane party, which leads to the ice cream going first!

In typical Keys tradition, Chef Tim Lyons and the staff at blu will be hosting our Second Annual Hurricane Party this Thursday, September 2nd. Don't worry about the hurricane; you don't need one at blu to enjoy this party! Instead, we will take a smoker and a grill out back and prepare cuisine inspired by Hurricane-prone regions. Gumbo from New Orleans, Cuban roast pork, Jamaican Smoked Jerk Chicken, to name a few. And what Hurricane Party would be complete without beverages? How about some mojitos, daquiris, Alabama slammers and... er, hurricanes?

$25 is all it will cost for the food. We'll set up serving stations outside, get some cool reggae and zydeco tunes, and have a cool relaxing evening with some good food and friends. Also, be sure to check out our new mural provided by Sneha, Lynette and Amy, three wonderful Jordan High School Art Department alumnus. The weather should be turning cooler and I predict an awesome evening.

Reserve now!

BURNT ENDS -- Because bacon just won't do it for you anymore

At some point over the past several years, bacon has become a trendy ingredient in many foods and menu items. I've even seen people infuse it into alcohol, add it to drink recipes, wear it on their clothes, etc. The hipster community has embraced bacon and this food fad has taken on a life all its own. However, there is a food item out there with enough flavor to punch bacon in the face, and it is the "burnt ends" of the brisket.

Burnt ends get their name from their appearance. After a brisket has been all rubbed up with spices and smoked for hours and hours, a blackened crust forms on the outer edge of the meat. The sugars and spices caramelize, forming what is known as "brisket snot." These unctious, flavor-filled little morsels of food are prized pieces of meat, but were not always considered as such.

The brisket has two main parts, the point and the flat. The flat is usually what is purchased in supermarkets, since it is easily trimmed and has a neat little fat cap on top of beautiful red meat. The point however, is usually trimmed away, as it contains much more fat throughout the meat and is harder to trim. Many pit cooks would keep the brisket intact while smoking it, allowing the fat from the point and on top of the flat to melt into the meat, flavoring it and keeping it moist at the same time. However, since they didn't think they could sell the blackened and seasoned trimmings from this meat, it was usually discarded.

Arthur Bryant's BBQ in Kansas City had another solution. Since long lines usually snaked around the block at their joint on Brooklyn Ave., they kept the trimmings and "burnt ends" in a bucket for customers waiting in line to eat for free. This whetted many appetites while people waited to be served. But Mr. Bryant noticed that the burnt ends were getting more popular than the meat he was selling, and realized that he would have to charge for it. As you can imagine, this upset many people in Kansas City. Now burnt ends are one of the most popular menu item at Arthur Bryant's, and at many other BBQ joints across the country.

This month, blu seafood and bar is featuring burnt ends on it's monthly wine dinner. "The LandLover's Wine Dinner" features four courses of steak-themed dishes. The second of these courses is a "Wedge Salad with brisket "burnt ends" and blu cheese dressing. Imagine that... Brisket burnt ends spread over a wedge of Romaine and drizzled with blu cheese dressing!

The dinner is Wednesday, August 18 at 7pm, and the four courses, each paired with a wine from Hope Valley Bottle Shop, is only $45. And we apologize ahead of time for converting you from bacon.

MOLE POBLANO -- The World's First Barbeque Sauce

Many people familiar with Mexican cuisine have run across the thick and complex sauce known as mole (pronounced moh-LAY), but perhaps not everyone is aware of just how much preparation is involved in creating such a sauce. In fact, Mexican women, each said to have "their own mole," prefer to cook it in large batches so that the excess can be frozen to serve later. Such is the painstaking process of making mole.

There are many different types of mole. Most of them originate from the Mexican villages of Puebla and Oaxaca. Oaxaca (pronounced wha-HAH-ka) is known as the "Land of Seven Moles." Recently we have added Mole Poblano to our menu at blu seafood in order to accompany our pork tenderloin dish.

Mole Poblano is believed to have first been served by Montezuma at a banquet for Cortes and his conquistadors, whom he believed to be gods. However, historians argue that chocolate -- a vital ingredient to Mole Poblano's flavor profile -- would never have been served in an Aztec dish, as they valued it too much. A more passable thoery is that it was enhanced by 16th century nuns at the Convent of Santa Rosa in Puebla de los Angeles. When they heard that an archbishop was unexpectedly planning a visit to the convent, they feared they would not be able to provide a good enough supper for him. So they prayed and prayed, and were visited by an angel, who inspired them to create the complex sauce. Hours of roasting and grinding and cooking paid off as they coated an old turkey with the thick and delicious sauce which was flavored with what they had in their pantry -- including the chocolate -- and the rest is history.

We recommend that you avoid spending the entire day grinding spices and roasting ingredients, and rather you let us do the cooking for you. But if you insist, we've included Chef Tim Lyons' recipe for Mole Poblano, which we serve with our Pork Tenderloin over Mexican slaw and spicy sweet potato fries.

MOLE POBLANO

ingredients

3 pasilla chiles (stemmed and seeded)

3 ancho chiles (stemmed and seeded)

1 chipotle chile (stemmed and seeded)

1 green plantain, cut in half

1 onion

8 cloves garlic

1 t dried oregano

2 T chopped cilantro

1 tomato, seeded and chopped

1/2 cup peanuts

1/4 cup almonds

4 corn tortillas

4 cup chicken stock

1/2 cup canola oil

2 oz bitter chocolate

The key to making this mole is to individually toast each ingredient, then reserve. Once all ingredients have been toasted separately, they will be added together, pureed, then put back on the heat to cook.

In a saucepan, heat the canola oil. Toast the pasillas in oil, then reserve. Toast ancho, then reserve. Toast chipotle and reserve. Brown plantain, then reserve. Sweat onion and garlic with oregano and cilantro, then reserve. Add tomatoes and cook for a couple of minutes. Reserve. Toast peanuts and almonds. Reserve.

Add all ingredients and puree. Slowly add tortillas and puree into a paste. Add 1/2 of the chicken stock while pureeing. Add mixture back into the pot with remaining chicken stock. Cook on low heat for additional 30 minutes. Then add chocolate and stir until melted. Salt and pepper to taste.

While traditionally this sauce is served with turkey, it tastes great with pork and chicken as well. One bite and you will have no problem discovering why this is regarded as "The World's First Barbeque Sauce!!"

Mango Mojito!

Summer and Mango Mojitos go together like Texas and chainsaw massacres.

Delicious.

BOUILLABAISSE

Anyone looking to find a worthwhile contribution of the French into the cuisine of the world need to look no further than bouillabaisse. Bouillabaisse is a fish stew with its origins estimated to be from the Provencal port town of Marseille.

It is believed that bouillabaisse began as a "fisherman's stew," in which fishermen collected the bonier fish and small shellfish that usually got caught up in their nets after they'd returned from a day at sea. Knowing that the restaurants preferred more expensive items and that these could not be sold, they threw them all in a pot with herbs and made stew.

Every culture seems to have their own version of bouillabaisse. The Greeks claim to have originated what we now celebrate as a French culinary creation when they settled in Marseille around 600 BC. The Italians also have cioppino, or more comparatively, brodecto de li dicti pisci. The people of Marseille even lay claim that this soup was served to Venus' lover Vulcan so that she could step out with Mars. But what gives bouillabaisse it's French definition is the inclusion of Provencal herbs. While you may find many different variations of bouillabaisse throughout Provence, the most notable herbs used are garlic, basil, bay leaf, orange peel, fennel, and sometimes even Pernod. But almost all versions include saffron.

At blu seafood and bar, Chef Tim Lyons loves bouillabaisse. He was trained by his brother-in-law, Roland Gaujac of Roland's Place and 1796 House in Vermont, who himself is a product of Lyon, France. After a six-year stint in Key West at Louie's Backyard, Tim's love for French cooking methods and Caribbean flavors and ingredients were a natural marriage.

One of the products of that marriage is the Green Curry Bouillabaisse on the menu at blu seafood and bar. Keeping fast to the traditions that created bouillabaisse, Tim introduces some of the ingredients that are abundant in the Caribbean to produce a bowlful of flavor that requires no passport. Those looking for a profound evolution from the stew comprised of lesser cuts and smaller shellfish would be impressed at how far bouillabaisse has come. Chef Lyons combines PEI mussels, fresh-caught shrimp, littleneck clams, and our fresh catch of the day with green curry paste, lemongrass, cilantro, garlic, shallots and oil, then tops the dish with fried Udon noodles. The result speaks for itself.

But don't take my word on it. Come on in tonight and try yourself a bowl. You won't be disappointed.

Gulf Crisis Update

Bummer.

I would like to give a special shout-out to our friends at British Petroleum for crashing our Oyster Tuesday party. For years we have rocked months without "r's" and rolled through over eight hundred thousand oysters from over 13 different "mer-riors," with nary a hitch. The time of year has not mattered, the region has never given us pause. We were here to shuck oysters. We were born for it. We threw festivals to commemorate the bivalve, we threw deals around willy-nilly. Nothing could stop us.

And then along came Jones... Guess who is crashing the party (once again)? We solemnly regret to inform that, in spite of my previous post, we will be forced to increase the price of the Gulf oyster due to the current issue in the Gulf. This will affect our Tuesday special. Please don't start hoarding your canned goods and bottled water just yet -- there is a light at the end of the tunnel. At the moment, we are able to provide Gulf oysters at $1.50 per and at 5.50/9.50 on Oyster Tuesday.

And remember to keep our Gulf fishermen in your hearts and thoughts throughout these trying times. As hard as this experience has been on us, it is nearly insurmountable for many of them. This century has been very unkind to Gulf fishermen, and it is unlikely to get any better.

EFFECTS OF THE OIL SPILL IN THE GULF AND OUR SEAFOOD

Lately, we have been fielding a lot of questions concerning how the tragic oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico affects our seafood supply. We are grateful for everyone's concerns and for the opportunity to address this issue.

First and foremost, it should be noted that blu seafood and bar sources its seafood locally whenever possible. While we like to treat our guests with fresh-caught fish from exotic locations such as the Hawaiian Islands when possible, a great majority of our fish comes from the Eastern seaboard. The North Carolina coast has a wonderful bounty of seafood all year long and we enjoy bringing our guests as much as we can from these waters. At the moment, all of the oil has been contained in the Gulf, and no one is anticipating our waters being affected.

However, one of our most popular menu items is oysters, and we sell hundreds of Gulf oysters per day. The Gulf of Mexico supplies nearly 67% of our nation's oysters, and Louisiana provides a large percentage of them. Our primary seafood distributor -- Inland Seafood -- expertly deals
with oyster farms and, as one is shut down due to this calamity, they are sourced from another one. Every oyster farmer out there knows to pull their beds before there is even the slightest chance of danger, so there really is no chance of shucking a 30 weight oyster... never you fear. However, this eventually should affect the market's supply.

In the meantime, we continue to provide Gulf oysters while we can, but have plenty of oysters from cooler climes. Expect to see lots of Chesapeake and Canadian (and even a few gigas from the West Coast when possible) throughout the summer, and hopefully we will be spared from the effects of this tragedy.

But we should keep in our minds those who are not so lucky. There are many families that are dependent on the bounties of the sea who will be devastated by this. We can only hope that there are people out there who are put into position to make sure this never happens again, and who are able to 'fight the real enemy.'

Happy as a Clam...

See what's in my hand?







Stay tuned for more clams!

COCKTAILS!!

That's right, I said COCKTAILS!!!

If the video above does not appear, please click here to view. Trust me, it's a keeper.

And Mango Mojitos aren't the only stars of the party this season. The barstaff at blu seafood and bar are rocking the Spring season of 2010 with an all new Mojito and Margarita Bar!!! That's right, you can chose from several different options to flavor your margarita or mojito. Try out some pomegranate, peach, elderflower, and much, much more. There's word of adding coconut to the mix, so keep posted.

DOLPHINFISH

Since our menu changed in April, and our last post was posted, we have been flooded with e-mails and phone calls with concern about our new menu item: Annatto-Rubbed Dolphinfish over Cuban Black Beans with Mango Salsa. Most of the concern has arisen due to people's love for dolphins, the cute mammal from the sea, and how we could dare serve a fillet of one here in Durham.

Rest assured, no one is eating Flipper. DOLPHINFISH is the Floridian name for the fish commonly referred to as "Mahi-Mahi." In fact, Coryphaena hippurus is known by many names across the country, and across the planet as well. The Hawaiian name -- and most common along the mid-Atlantic states -- is "Mahi-Mahi," while Californians refer to the same fish as "Dorado." Other cultures have many other names for it, including rakingo, maverikos and calitos. But blu seafood and bar's cuisine is deeply aligned with not only the Floridian style of cooking, but more specifically, Key West cuisine. And in Florida and the Keys, Dolphinfish reigns supreme on seafood menus.

Our Dolphinfish is caught fresh off the coast from Virginia all the way down to Florida, with much of it coming off the shores right here in the Old North State. So while you can enjoy Mahi all up and across North Carolina, be sure to drop in to blu seafood and bar to get your fresh fillet of Dolphinfish.

Dinner starts at five.

ANNATTO -- Seed of the Gods

Four times per year -- about every season -- the menu at blu seafood and bar changes to reflect the new bounty of fresh produce and seafood. For many, these quarterly occasions are highly anticipated and marked with great expressions of joy. blu employees are especially excited, as it gives us the opportunity to work with new ingredients and preparations that keep us on our toes.

One such ingredient is ANNATTO, which could be regarded as one of the most versatile ingredients on the planet. So versatile, in fact, that it wasn't until recently that it was used for cooking.

The annatto seed is a derivative of the achiote tree, which grows in tropical regions of the Americas. The earliest recording of its use stretches back to Brazil, where it was used as a body paint. The tribes in question believed that the annatto seed held powers that, when used as a body paint during ancient ceremonies, would protect the tribes from evil spirits. Insect repellent was another popular usage. Annatto was also used by Aztecs for painting and recording manuscripts.

It is believed that the Jamaicans, around the 18th century at the earliest, are the first to use annatto in food preparation. They are noted for using the ingredient for both a food coloring and a cure-all for upset stomachs. It was later used to color cheeses, particularly cheddar and brie, giving them the darker colors to which consumers had grown accustomed. (It should be noted that less ethical cheese dealers would color lower grades of cheese with annatto so that their goods could be passed off as higher grades of cheese.)

But the annatto's versatility lends itself to much more in the kitchen. Its taste is subtle, often remarked as being earthy, peppery, and a whisper of sweetness. Its aroma is strong, also peppery and offering a hint of nutmeg. Although it's primarily used as a natural food coloring, the subtlety of its flavor often adds depth to foods with Carribbean flair.

If you are dying to discover what all the fuss is about, blu seafood and bar can give you an immediate annatto fix. As of April 7, blu is featuring on its Spring menu: Annatto-Rubbed Dolphinfish with Cuban Black Beans and Mango Salsa. Chef Tim Lyons has takes the annatto seed, forms it into a paste, then mixes it with sour oranges and garlic. This mixture is then brushed onto the fish before it is pan-roasted. The flavor is not too overpowering, but your first bite will definitely transport you to Latin America. And it's also worth it to note that, thanks to the powers of the achiote, your dolphinfish will be completely free of all evil spirits.

Dinner starts at five.

OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER

One of our nation's most popular fine dining traditions is Oysters Rockefeller. This baked oyster dish appears on many seafood menus across the nation and nearly all of them feature fresh shucked oysters, parmesan, bacon, and spinach. But what do we really know about Oysters Rockefeller? Where did it get its name? And would you be surprised to know that the dish you are ordering is perhaps not the real Oysters Rockefeller?

Oysters Rockefeller was created in 1889 in New Orleans, by Jules Alciatore. Jules' father, Antoine, is the namesake of the world renown French Quarter restaurant, Antoine's. Since 1840, Antoine had been serving Snails Bourgignon, an homage to his French homeland. However, at the turn of the century, after his son Jules had taken over the restaurant, there was a shortage of snails in the US. That, combined with a decline in the American taste for escargot, led Jules to search for a compromise. In 1899, Jules substituted fresh local Gulf oysters for the snails, and Oysters Rockefeller was born.

The recipe for Antoine's Oysters Rockefeller is a closely guarded secret. So secret, that only the family members know it and over the course of the last 100 years, no one has divulged even a hint. What is known is that Jules wanted the dish to have a green color, so as to represent greenbacks. Also, the richness of the sauce led to the name of the dish, which honored the richest man in the US at the time: John D. Rockefeller. However, the Antoine's version of the Rockefeller does not include spinach, like all imitators do. No one knows exactly how the green enters the dish, but it is commonly argued that the color is provided by the presence of scallions, parsley, watercress, or perhaps all three. A little Herbsaint (an anise-flavored liquor resembling Pernod) is added in the baking, as well as cheese and a thick butter sauce with bread crumbs. At Antoine's, they are listed on the menu as Huitres en Coquille a la Rockefeller.

What we commonly order at just about every other restaurant is actually a variation on the Italian oyster dish Ostriche alla Fiorentina, which notably uses spinach.

Here at blu seafood and bar, we proudly serve our Oysters Rockefeller with freshly shucked oysters from Appalachicola, Florida. For the topping, we reduce shallots and white wine, reduce heavy cream, add fresh spinach and parmesan cheese, then puree the mixture. That is ladled over the oyster while still in its half-shell, then topped with rendered apple-wood smoked bacon and freshly grated parmesan-reggiano cheese. A squeeze of lemon and a few minutes under the broiler are all that's left and voila: Oysters Rockefeller!

HINT: An order of Oysters Rockefeller is only $5 if you order it during our Happy Hour from 5-7 at the bar at blu. And when the menu changes for the Spring on April 7, Oysters Rockefeller will still be on the menu!

IRISH CUISINE

(Originally posted 03.02.10.ad)

Let's face it, Irish cuisine gets a bad rap. In this day and age, most of what we understand to be "Irish Cuisine" is limited to the fast food served in pubs and joints like Bennigan's and O'Charley's. What's worse, food from the Emerald Isle all too often evokes the image of the potato. Oh, Yeats and Joyce spin in their graves at such generalizations. What few people realize is that Ireland actually has a very rich, if not politically and socially challenged, culinary history.

Traditionally, Irish cuisine has been dependent on the resources native to the island. The lush, green countrysides were perfect grazing grounds for cattle and sheep, so naturally the Irish would command a taste for excellent beef, dairy, and lamb. For centuries, Irish beef was so prized in Europe that it became a major point of contention for Roman and British empires. Irish bacon comes from fine pork on the island. Fresh vegetables and grains also played a major role in Irish cuisine. Cabbage, tomatoes, oats, and barley grow exceptionally well in Ireland's temperate climate. And of course, one would be remiss to exclude the role of seafood on the island. Songs and poems have been written about the mussels, not to mention the salmon, trout, and cod that have come to typify the diets of Irishmen. For the most part, Irish diets were primarily based on butter, milk, and grain.

It wasn't until the mid-sixteenth century that the potato was introduced, and even then, it was intended as a "garden crop" to supplement the grain and dairy-based diets. One common use for the potato was to fatten pigs before the winter harvest, adding a heartier flavor to bacon and other cured meats that sustained them through the brutal Irish winters. However, social and political developments changed the landscape of the country and the diets forever.

Tudor rule in England all but forbade Catholicism and heavy penalties were enacted to enforce these restrictions. In Ireland, the troubles were much worse, as the British enacted Penal Laws to punish the Catholic majority of the island. These laws prevented Irish Catholics from voting, holding office, and from buying land or bequeathing their own property to their decendants. Their land would be divided up among their heirs, thereby reducing the plots of land that an Irishman was allowed to use for farming. At the time, the primarily agrarian culture had no other way to sustain their families, so this development was staggering. They no longer could use their pastures for cattle, but instead, developed a form of monoculture. The potato was the only food they were able to cultivate. Armed with all of the nutrients a person needs to survive, many Irish families knew only the potato as a source of food.

Unfortunately, the potato was very succeptible to blights and diseases. When droughts or crop failures occured during this period, the effects could be devastating. Such was the case during the misnamed "Great Irish Famine" (1845-1849), where a potato blight caused the entire crop to fail for years. This led to massive starvation and emigration for the country. More than half of the population of the island either died or relocated, many of them to America. With them, they brought culinary traditions of years long past.

This diaspora has led to many misconceptions about Irish cuisine, mostly since their traditions, diets, and ways of life had been smothered by British rule. Most of what now constitutes "Irish cuisine" is reimaginings of traditional Irish staples fused with contemporary cooking styles. One of the best examples is boxty, best described as a "potato pancake." Boxty is prepared by making a crepe-like vessel that is filled with Irish delights such as fish, fresh cheese, meats and/or vegetables. Fish and Chips is a long-standing Irish dish which pairs battered Cod and "fries" with copious amounts of salt and malt vinegar. Oyster festivals are abound on Irish seashores as they celebrate both the traditional Irish oyster (O. Edulis) as well as the newly-introduced Pacific oyster (c. gigas), usually with a pint of Guinness.

Irish cuisine is a young cuisine, but stepped with a history as old as the cliffs of Galway, and as troubled as the turbulent waters of the Irish Seas. For a little taste of the culmination of centuries of a heritage, a culture, and of a people, we asked you to join us at blu seafood and bar on March 17th -- the feast day of St. Patrick -- for a four-course meal inspired by the Irish Seas, each paired with a wine by our friends at the Hope Valley Bottle Shop.

LOWCOUNTRY CUISINE

In February 2010, the wine dinner at blu seafood and bar celebrated the rich culinary heritage of the Lowcountry.

What is Lowcountry, you may ask. Well, geographically speaking, the Lowcountry is defined as the coastal areas from around Pawley's Island (about 60 miles north of Charleston) all the way down to the Savannah River. Here among the palmettos, the Spanish moss, and the saltmarshes can be found some of America's richest remnants of culture, especially in the culinary traditions of this region, which run very deep. French Huguenots, Spanish conquistadores, English merchants, and Native-American tribes have all influenced Lowcountry cuisine, but the major contributions were made by African-American slaves. Many of the ingredients and cooking methods that are most popular in Lowcountry cooking traveled the Atlantic Ocean from West Africa, and the Gullah people -- descendants of slaves -- of South Carolina keep these traditions alive.

There are two major components to Lowcountry cooking: The sea and agriculture. While there are many staples to so-called "Southern Food" that are shared by Lowcountry cuisine, one of the major separation points between Southern and Lowcountry have to be marked by the presence of seafood. Sure, grits is an important item on any Southern plate, but when you add fresh shrimp to the dish, Lowcountry has accented the dish. Crab, fish, oysters, and shrimps are major ingredient to Lowcountry cuisine. One of the more popular dishes, Frogmore Stew, is sort of a "Lowcountry Boil" -- a one-pot stew of shrimp, corn-on-the-cob, and spicy sausage. Here, oysters are steamed in their own liquors and she-crab soup is the Soupe du Jour.

Agriculture has played a large part in the culinary tradition as well. The lush, fertile marshes proved to be best suited for rice-growing. Again, slaves played a large part in this major development, as it is believed that West Africans provided slaveowners the expertise to cultivating the grain which was more common in their homeland. Rice is often one of the more common bases to Lowcountry dishes, such as pilau (per-LOO), chicken bog, and Savannah red rice. Many other ingredients were introduced to the Americas via the slave trade, with the Lowcountry providing the same growing conditions as West Africa, such as yams/sweet potatoes, turnips, okra, sesame (benne is another major menu item in Charleston restaurants), black-eyed peas, and many more. Those of us lucky to live in this part of the nation enjoy close proximity to such wonderful, diverse food cultures.

"The Walrus and the Carpenter"

excerpt from Through the Looking Glass and What Alice Found There

by Lewis Carroll

"O Oysters, come and walk with us!"

The Walrus did beseech.

"A pleasant walk, a pleasant talk,

Along the briny beach:

We cannot do with more than four,

To give a hand to each."

The eldest oyster looked at him,

But never a word he said:

The eldest Oyster winked his eye,

And shook his heavy head --

Meaning to say he did not choose

To leave the oyster-bed.

But four young oysters hurried up,

All eager for the treat:

Their coats were brushed, their faces washed,

Their shoes were clean and neat --

And this was odd, because, you know,

They hadn't any feet.

Four other oysters followed them,

And yet another four,

And thick and fast they came at last,

And more, and more, and more --

All hopping through the frothy waves,

And scrambling to the shore.

The Walrus and the Carpenter

Walked on a mile or so,

And then they rested on a rock

Conveniently low:

And all the little Oysters stood

And waited in a row.

"The time has come," the Walrus said,

"To talk of many things:

Of shoes - and ships - and sealing wax --

Of cabbages - and kings -

And why the sea is boiling hot --

And whether pigs have wings."

"But wait a bit," the Oysters cried,

"Before we have our chat;

For some of us are out of breath,

And all of us are fat!"

"No hurry!" said the Carpenter.

They thanked him much for that.

"A loaf of bread," the Walrus said,

"Is that what we chiefly need:

Pepper and vinegar besides

Are very good indeed --

Now if you're ready, Oysters dear,

We can begin to feed."

"But not on us!" the Oysters cried,

Turning a little blue.

"After such kindness, that would be

A dismal thing to do!"

"The night is fine," the Walrus said,

"Do you admire the view?"

"It was so kind of you to come!

And you are very nice!"

The Carpenter said nothing but

"Cut us another slice:

I wish you were not quite so deaf --

I've had to ask you twice!"

"It seems a shame," the Walrus said,

"To play them such a trick,

After we've brought them out so far,

And made them trot so quick!"

The Carpenter said nothing but

"The butter's spread too thick!"

"I weep for you," the Walrus said:

"I deeply sympathize."

With sobs and tears he sorted out

Those of the largest size,

Holding his pocket-handkerchief

Before his streaming eyes.

"O Oysters," said the Carpenter,

"You've had a pleasant run!

Shall we be trotting home again?"

But answer came there none --

And this was scarcely odd, because

They'd eaten every one.

'R' Oysters Rocking All Year Round?

One of the biggest myths that a seafood distributor, restaurant operator, or oysterphile must endure year after year is the one concerning oysters and the months that contain an 'R.' Long ago, before refrigeration and improvements in interstate shipping, someone decided that oysters were unsafe and inedible during the summer. But is this true? Are oysters good year round?

First of all, one should note that the so-called "R-Rule" was developed for European oysters, rather than North American oysters. Samuel Butler, author of Dyet's Dry Dinner, wrote in 1599 that, "it is unseasonal and unwholesome in all months that have not an R in their name to eat an oyster." However, it is important to point out that Mr. Butler lived in Europe, and his location significantly alters the discussion in regards to North American bivalves.

The predominant oyster in question during Mr. Butler's days (and still is) would be the flat, European oyster, also known as Ostrea edulis. During the non-winter months, ostrea edulis keeps its young until they can form their own tiny shells. These gritty, rock-like shells forming inside the oyster make the European oyster in question quite unpleasurable to eat during summer months.

So how does that affect North American oysters? It really doesn't. Advancements in technology and transportation have far exceeded what those of Mr. Butler's day could have imagined. Many would argue that the warm waters of the Gulf prevent safe oyster consumption during summer months, while many, including the Department of the Interior, would argue that they were safe. Gulf oysters, as well as the East Coast oyster -- crassostrea Virginica -- do not retain their young like their European counterparts. Rather, the oyster will secrete sperm and eggs into the water during its summer spawn to produce millions of larvae. This prevents them from forming rocky substances within their shells.

Many will argue that, Gulf oysters in particular, lose their flavor during summer months. Robb Walsh, author of Sex, Death, and Oysters argues that they lose their body weight after spawning, and that their flavor falls flat.

When winter waters turn colder at the end of the summer, oysters will store a carbohydrate compound called glycogen. This compound, which has a sweet sensation to humans, accumulates through the winter, causing oysters to become more plump and sweet. Many argue that the oyster's flavor is at its peak during the coldest months.

So in order to preserve the scientific method, we present all oysterphiles with a challenge. Chef Tim Lyons of blu seafood and bar has decided to put the flavor issue to the test. This past January, when oysters are arguably at their peak, Lyons and staff offered an "Oyster Flight Night." This enabled guests to sample 6-8 different oysters from around the continent to not only discern their subtle differences across different appellations and "merriors," but also to test their flavor against themselves when the same oysters are offered in July. On January 27th, the "Oyster Flight" was offered at $10.50 for one of each, and at $20 for two of each oyster. Be sure to rejoin blu in July for the same offer in the middle of the summer, when the pundits and so-called experts argue that the American oysters have lost their flavor.

Will Oysters Help Me Hook Up or Not?

Throughout history and literature, oysters have been highly regarded as aphrodisiacs. Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and from whom the word aphrodisiac undoubtedly came, sprang forth from an oyster shell while giving birth to Eros. The Roman satirist Juvenal made mention in his writings of how wine and giant oysters caused recklessness in women. Casanova, the legendary Italian lover, reportedly ate 50 oysters for breakfast every day.
It is indisputable that oysters are renowned as aphrodisiacs, but is there really any truth to this claim?
As it turns out, many studies have been conducted to determine the legitimacy of these claims. Studies have found that oysters have a high zinc content. Zinc is often found in sperm, and men with zinc deficiencies often suffer from impotence. Since men tend to lose between 1-3 milligrams of zinc per ejaculation, oysters are an excellent source to replace this mineral.
Studies funded by the United States National Institutes of Health, in cooperation with the Laboratory of Neurobiology in Naples, found other evidence as well. When testing bivalve mollusks, they found the presence of two unusual amino acids -- D-Aspartic Acid (D-Asp) and N-methyl-D-aspartate (NMDA). The scientists injected these amino acids into rats and watched as the testosterone levels in the males flew off the charts.
However they caution that cooking oysters in any way tends to diminish the concentrations of zinc and amino acids. These babies are best consumed raw.
Yet some discount the scientific data, looking instead to more simplistic points of view. The image alone of the oyster can account for its aphrodisiac quality. When one thinks of an oyster, one is undoubtedly reminded of its legendary powers, regardless of the veracity of the claims. Also, just as many alleged aphrodisiacs are similar in appearance to a phallus (banana, rhinocerous horn, etc.), the oyster has an uncanny similarity to the vagina, which also can stir sexual desire.
Again, the risk involved can also heighten adrenaline, leading to desire. As famed Irish wit Jonathan Swift once noted, "He was a bold man that first ate an oyster." There is a sense of danger -- a heightened sense of risk -- many people experience when they eat oysters. Rowan Jacobsen, one of America's most prolific oyster lovers, observes, "And you're feeling really good because you've got all this vitality that you've just taken from the sea and put into yourself. You're just feeling good and that can manifest in all sorts of ways."
Tim Lyons, Chef/Owner of blu seafood and bar sees things a different way. "There's a sensuality to eating an oyster," Lyons says. "There is a silkiness in the liquor in the cup, there's a tangy zing from the salinity, the taste of the sea... The entire act of eating oysters is sexy."
Our man Casanova would agree. While most chefs recommend champagne mignionette, lemons or even horseradish with oysters, Casanova had his own serving style:
"I placed the shell on the edge of her lips and after a good deal of laughing, she sucked in the oyster, which she held between her lips. I instantly recovered it by placing my lips on hers."
The government, on the other hand, disagrees. The FDA believes there is no validity to the assumption that oysters act as an aphrodisiac. Leave it to everyone's favorite government agency to suck the fun out of a lovely bivalve. Citing "no scientific evidence," despite the findings posted above, the bureaucrats are trying hard to discount your chance of hooking up tonight. Again.
We encourage you to not just take our word for it. While the FDA has their side, oyster-philes may see it another way. In the end, there is only one true way to find out. Grab a significant other and rush down to your favorite neighborhood seafood joint and order a dozen or so. If you really want to play it safe, order a glass of wine and some dark chocolate too!