'R' Oysters Rocking All Year Round?

One of the biggest myths that a seafood distributor, restaurant operator, or oysterphile must endure year after year is the one concerning oysters and the months that contain an 'R.' Long ago, before refrigeration and improvements in interstate shipping, someone decided that oysters were unsafe and inedible during the summer. But is this true? Are oysters good year round?

First of all, one should note that the so-called "R-Rule" was developed for European oysters, rather than North American oysters. Samuel Butler, author of Dyet's Dry Dinner, wrote in 1599 that, "it is unseasonal and unwholesome in all months that have not an R in their name to eat an oyster." However, it is important to point out that Mr. Butler lived in Europe, and his location significantly alters the discussion in regards to North American bivalves.

The predominant oyster in question during Mr. Butler's days (and still is) would be the flat, European oyster, also known as Ostrea edulis. During the non-winter months, ostrea edulis keeps its young until they can form their own tiny shells. These gritty, rock-like shells forming inside the oyster make the European oyster in question quite unpleasurable to eat during summer months.

So how does that affect North American oysters? It really doesn't. Advancements in technology and transportation have far exceeded what those of Mr. Butler's day could have imagined. Many would argue that the warm waters of the Gulf prevent safe oyster consumption during summer months, while many, including the Department of the Interior, would argue that they were safe. Gulf oysters, as well as the East Coast oyster -- crassostrea Virginica -- do not retain their young like their European counterparts. Rather, the oyster will secrete sperm and eggs into the water during its summer spawn to produce millions of larvae. This prevents them from forming rocky substances within their shells.

Many will argue that, Gulf oysters in particular, lose their flavor during summer months. Robb Walsh, author of Sex, Death, and Oysters argues that they lose their body weight after spawning, and that their flavor falls flat.

When winter waters turn colder at the end of the summer, oysters will store a carbohydrate compound called glycogen. This compound, which has a sweet sensation to humans, accumulates through the winter, causing oysters to become more plump and sweet. Many argue that the oyster's flavor is at its peak during the coldest months.

So in order to preserve the scientific method, we present all oysterphiles with a challenge. Chef Tim Lyons of blu seafood and bar has decided to put the flavor issue to the test. This past January, when oysters are arguably at their peak, Lyons and staff offered an "Oyster Flight Night." This enabled guests to sample 6-8 different oysters from around the continent to not only discern their subtle differences across different appellations and "merriors," but also to test their flavor against themselves when the same oysters are offered in July. On January 27th, the "Oyster Flight" was offered at $10.50 for one of each, and at $20 for two of each oyster. Be sure to rejoin blu in July for the same offer in the middle of the summer, when the pundits and so-called experts argue that the American oysters have lost their flavor.