Friday, April 9, 2010

ANNATTO -- Seed of the Gods


Four times per year -- about every season -- the menu at blu seafood and bar changes to reflect the new bounty of fresh produce and seafood. For many, these quarterly occasions are highly anticipated and marked with great expressions of joy. blu employees are especially excited, as it gives us the opportunity to work with new ingredients and preparations that keep us on our toes.

One such ingredient is ANNATTO, which could be regarded as one of the most versatile ingredients on the planet. So versatile, in fact, that it wasn't until recently that it was used for cooking.

The annatto seed is a derivative of the achiote tree, which grows in tropical regions of the Americas. The earliest recording of its use stretches back to Brazil, where it was used as a body paint. The tribes in question believed that the annatto seed held powers that, when used as a body paint during ancient ceremonies, would protect the tribes from evil spirits. Insect repellent was another popular usage. Annatto was also used by Aztecs for painting and recording manuscripts.

It is believed that the Jamaicans, around the 18th century at the earliest, are the first to use annatto in food preparation. They are noted for using the ingredient for both a food coloring and a cure-all for upset stomachs. It was later used to color cheeses, particularly cheddar and brie, giving them the darker colors to which consumers had grown accustomed. (It should be noted that less ethical cheese dealers would color lower grades of cheese with annatto so that their goods could be passed off as higher grades of cheese.)

But the annatto's versatility lends itself to much more in the kitchen. Its taste is subtle, often remarked as being earthy, peppery, and a whisper of sweetness. Its aroma is strong, also peppery and offering a hint of nutmeg. Although it's primarily used as a natural food coloring, the subtlety of its flavor often adds depth to foods with Carribbean flair.

If you are dying to discover what all the fuss is about, blu seafood and bar can give you an immediate annatto fix. As of April 7, blu is featuring on its Spring menu: Annatto-Rubbed Dolphinfish with Cuban Black Beans and Mango Salsa. Chef Tim Lyons has takes the annatto seed, forms it into a paste, then mixes it with sour oranges and garlic. This mixture is then brushed onto the fish before it is pan-roasted. The flavor is not too overpowering, but your first bite will definitely transport you to Latin America. And it's also worth it to note that, thanks to the powers of the achiote, your dolphinfish will be completely free of all evil spirits.

Dinner starts at five.

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